A light lunch

I arrived in Hakone Yumoto just shy of 11AM. At this point I was faced with several options. I could a) take a bus 5 minutes to my Ryokan to see if I can drop my bag; b) continue on up the mountain on the switch back railroad; or, c) backtrack two stops on the local train and hunt for a locally famous non touristy restaurant that specializes in eel. Do I really need to tell you which option I chose?

I'd found out about Tomoei while searching for restaurants in the Hakone region. It ended up near the top on the Trip Advisor list and is apparently one of Japan's best Unagi (eel) specialists.

In Japan most restaurants specialize in one type of cuisine and the eel specialist is one of the more revered.

I had left my directions to Tomoei back in Tokyo but helpful railway staff had pointed me to Kazamatsuri Station and given me the correct direction to walk in. One of the women asked me if I had reservations and indicated that there could be a wait. Since it was very close to their 11AM opening time, I was hopeful that I wouldn't need one.

Five minutes later I walked into what I hoped was the right place (I really can't read any of the signs and there is no English anywhere). It was, and they seemed surprised but pleased to see a walk-in tourist.

The tables in front were all full so I was offered space in a Tatami Mat room which I understood was to be shared. Shoes off, I clambered into the room and seated myself in a cross legged position (no space beneath the table for your legs here).

No need to figure out the all Japanese, picture free menu. The hostess helpfully suggested the regular dish of choice, Unyaju Don which is eel on rice served with pickles and a soup. The cost of this lunch would be 40$ Can but I didn't balk, I knew what I was getting into when I sought this place out.

On arrival I was given some green tea (matcha style, I think) in a cedar wood tea pot that looked ancient.

Next came the best appetizer ever, deep fried salted eel bones. Tiny and crunchy. Just what you'd expect. I'm only sorry this probably isn't available in every convenience store. Wait, this is Japan. It probably is.

The rest of the meal arrives at the same time. A plate of Oshinko (pickled vegetables), a staple of all meals, an Osuimono Soup (a clear broth) and a covered lacquer box containing the precious eel lightly grilled and covered in eel sauce.

Now I'm sure many of you have been thinking "Eel? That sounds gross". But seriously, take a look at that picture. How can anything that delicious looking be considered gross. Uniquely textured and lacking any strong fishy taste, eel should be everyone's favorite Japanese food. It isn't even served raw (which should pacify all those anti-sushi people out there).

I waste no time devouring my eel lunch. It's so good I ignore the pepper option (a green colored powder) and just go with the lightly flavored sauce that had already been applied.

The soup turns out to be Eel Liver Osuimono proving Tomoei's commitment to using all available parts of the eel.

The hosts were very gracious as I departed. By noon there was a decent number of people both inside and outside waiting for a seat.

I made my way back to Kazamatsuri Station in bright hot sun. The weather was taking a turn for the better. When I made it back to the train platform the attendant asked me if I had enjoyed my Unagi. In spite of the language barrier between us I think I was able to convey to him just how happy I was.